Kazakhstan

The English teachers out for a pint!

2007-02-01T23:30:00.000+05:00

Me and Sandie

2006-07-25T03:13:00.000+05:00

Me and Ackar's family

2006-07-25T02:59:00.000+05:00

My host brother Aslan and his soccer buddies

2006-07-25T02:56:00.000+05:00

Me, another volunteer Woody and some students

2006-07-25T02:49:00.000+05:00

Found in Kazakhstan

2006-03-31T21:05:00.000+05:00

It’s been almost one year since I left Kazakhstan. Looking back now, I can only say that my time in Kazakhstan (especially Uralsk) was one of the greatest experiences of my life. I admit life was often very difficult and trying there, but the beauty far exceeds any bad memories. And by beauty, I’m referring to the people. Namely, my students. Its’ such a blessing to still be in contact with some of them. Their emails (especially Zhannet!) bring tears of joy. These women, and Rafhkat and Alibek, will soon be making great contributions to their country, to their families, and to the families they will soon be starting (like Danagul!) I wish you all the best of luck! And remember that someone in America is thinking of you and is very proud of each and every one of you! Thank you for all that you taught me!
Next, I must thank and acknowledge my host families. In Ecik; Syuliman, Sonya, Farida, and Aslan. They were the warmest, loving and generous people I’ve ever met. And I was most fortunate to have been a part of their family for 2 months. In Uralsk; I was blessed with another incredible family. Ghimran, Maoora, Azamat, Armat (Pushkin!), Askar, Babushka, and Gulzhan. Once again, they made me feel part of the family and truly introduced me to the richness of Kazakh culture.
I must also thank my counterpart, Maryam, and the wonderful teachers of West Kazakhstan University. Especially Lyazzat. She went well out of her way to welcome me and helped me in many ways. And also included me in many family events as well. Thank you Lyazzat! I hope you read this and email me! I lost your email. And Maryam, thank you so much for all your help and patience. I hope we meet again someday.
My neighbors; Ludmila, Oleg, Lena, and sweet little Nikita. I fear you have to put up with me more than anyone else! Ludmila, I miss your beautiful, Ukrainian voice. I hope you’re still singing and happily married. Lena, you were simply the best! Every time I see a vodka bottle I think of you! I pray you and your family are doing well.
And, to the best landlady and friend in the world, Elena. I don’t know what I would have down without you. I miss your friendship and pray you and your daughter are doing well!
The teachers of Eurasia Institute. You guys, especially Jazhalan, are simply crazy! And I love you for that! Albina, Zarima, Jay, Elena, I miss you all and hope your careers are very successful and rewarding. Especially Elena, thank you for the Russian lessons, including me in your family and for your warm friendship. And then there’s Tommy, You’re insane man! We better meet up again someday. Until then, put your damn shoes on!
And finally Ranida. How you ever put up with Tommy I’ll never know. But I’m glad you did, otherwise we wouldn’t have become such good friends. Please keep in touch.
Oh, and of course Askar. I’m so very, VERY proud of you! Congratulations on your scholarship to America. I hope you had a wonderful experience and learned a lot. I wish you the best of success. Please thank your family for me for all their amazing hospitality. You have a beautiful family! Please email me your address (in English) so I can send them some photos.
Oh wait! Tolkyn! God bless you girl! I can’t believe you’ve been in my country all this time and we still haven’t met up yet. I promise to change that soon. I hope married life is treating you well.
Although I may have been “lost in Kazakhstan,” here are a few things I found: life long friends, an appreciation for bisbarmak, how to drink vodka the Kazakh way, the experience of what it’s like to be on the outside looking in, another foreign language, how to hitch-hike, and most importantly, an experience that changed my life forever. Thank you Kazakhstan!
your friend, Rachael

2005-06-08T23:43:00.000+05:00

Here's me at my Schoenberg lecture trying to convert the locals of Uralsk to dodecaphony.

2005-06-08T23:42:00.000+05:00

And here we have the Peace Corps headquarters of Kazakhstan!! No really folks! If you look in the bottom right corner you can see the blue building. Gotta love the surroundings though!

2005-06-08T23:40:00.000+05:00

Here's Jen doing her best Vanna White showing some prime Kazakh property. A nice little fixer-upper!

2005-06-08T23:36:00.000+05:00

And the lovely marshrutka! Transportation at its finest! All aboard!

2005-06-08T23:34:00.000+05:00

Where all my mail and packages are delivered.

2005-06-08T23:33:00.000+05:00

A dreary winter view of my backyard.

2005-06-08T23:31:00.000+05:00

Poor Sue being attacked! I'll teach her to fall asleep on my couch!!

In hot water now!

2005-06-08T23:28:00.000+05:00

HEELLLLOOOOOO America!! Boy have I missed you! Sorry it’s been so long since I last wrote, but I was only just recently let out of my Kazakh prison in time for summer. Speaking of summer, it is bloody hot here! Kazakhstan basically only has 2 seasons; summer and winter. Spring and fall last about 2 weeks. So after my long and cold Siberian winter I’m ready for a very hot summer. But unlike last summer I am now the proud owner of a fan! Yeah, I know you’re all jealous seeing that you only have air-conditioners. Speaking of air-conditioners, if anyone is insane enough (I personally know at least a few of you are!!) how ‘bout sending me a nice air-conditioner?? I mean, think how much you could help the Kazakh people! It wouldn’t be for my benefit, really!!
Along with this sweltering heat we are also blessed with insects up the wazoo!! As soon as I step out of my apartment I am attacked by thousands of flies and mosquitoes. They are beyond maddening. If people could see us here not knowing we are being bombarded by millions of bugs they’d think the whole of Kazakhstan is mad (when in fact only most of it is!) We have to constantly wave our hands to try and keep the killer bugs at bay. Last week while fighting for dear life, I accidentally smacked myself in the face and sent my sun glasses flying across the bus which then hit some ol’ poor lady! Now I know why they call us rude Americans! How the hell do I explain that one in Russian!?! Anyway, the last I counted I had 38 mosquito bites, and I know I acquired a few more last night.
News flash!! The entire city of Uralsk has been without hot water now for about a month and will likely not have hot water for the rest of the summer. "Why??" Well, it's quite simple and logical; someone ran off with the money that was supposed to be used to pay the bill. Come on though, doesn't this happen everywhere??!!
I thought I would be done teaching for the summer in May. No such luck, till the end of June. I certainly wouldn’t mind another week of teaching except for the heat; lack of air-conditioned buildings, bugs and of course the fact that I’m lazy. But other than that, I really don’t mind at all. I also started teaching at another language institute. When I was told that the class I would be teaching consisted of 8th graders I almost started packing my bags. But, to my surprise, they’re an absolute joy! I honestly look forward to our meetings.
The university however, seems to be even more insane than ever. Schedules. How difficult can it be?!? Not only does it change every bloody week and sometimes by the day, but they also schedule two classes in one classroom and I’ve often been scheduled to teach two classes in different classrooms at the same time. Should I tell them that this is humanly impossible? And at least 3 times a week I don’t even have a classroom!
To escape the insanity I was planning a trip to Moscow in August. Escape is not possible. I was denied a visa to Russia. Why? Because I’m a Peace Corps volunteer. “Oh well, why didn’t you say so!? It makes perfect sense to me!!” Honest! This time I’m not lying! When I applied for the visa (all 3 times!) I was told that Russia does not allow Peace Corps volunteers in their country! Uhhhggg! I mean, I’m about 20 miles from them but I’m not allowed to cross the boarder. So much for my big escape!!
Well, I pray everyone is doing well. Thank you so much for all the emails, calls, care packages and prayers!! I look forward to the day when I can repay your kindness!!
I love you and miss you all!!
Rachael

2005-06-08T23:23:00.000+05:00

My neighbor and Prima Dona extraordinaire, Ludmila, performing at a concert hall here in Uralsk.

2005-06-08T23:21:00.000+05:00

Another class meeting at my apartment due to the lack of classrooms at the university.

2005-06-08T23:20:00.000+05:00

A VERY Kazakh scene. The men here always sit like that on the streets.

2005-06-08T23:18:00.000+05:00

A lovely view of my backyard and laundry!

2005-06-08T23:17:00.000+05:00

Some more of my wonderful students at my apartment

2005-06-08T23:16:00.000+05:00

One of my classes at my apartment.

Email address

2005-05-13T18:56:00.000+05:00

Hi! Thanks for your email! Here's my email address: rachaelcs@yahoo.com
Take care!

2005-03-26T20:08:00.000+05:00

Tommy and I with the absolutely wonderful woman who runs the cafe, Altinaya. An true gem!

2005-03-26T20:07:00.000+05:00

A view of the road in the village where I used to live. I went to visit my wonderful, Turkish, former host family here in March 2005.

2005-03-26T20:02:00.000+05:00

At a local cafe with a visiting professor from Germany and an absolute looney from England.

2005-02-21T22:47:00.000+04:00

Photo--Sure do miss civilization!!

2005-02-21T22:45:00.000+04:00

man's best friend! (I'm talking about the dog!)

2005-02-21T22:41:00.000+04:00

photo--entertaining some locals at a community concert

2005-02-21T22:33:00.000+04:00

photo--after the plunge into any icy, Siberian river!

2005-01-31T23:11:00.001+04:00

Wet, frozen t-shirt contest

2005-01-31T23:11:00.000+04:00

We did it!!

Now that's cold!!!

2005-01-31T22:42:00.000+04:00

Hey Everybody!
Sorry it’s been so long since my last update. No new excuses. Just the usual; complete and utter insanity.
It sure was great being home for Christmas. I have a whole new appreciation for my country, my family and my friends. I’ve never been so proud to be an American. I was completely taken back by my own culture. No other country can compare. I was worried how I would react to seeing everyone and how they would react to seeing me. It took about 5 minutes to adjust and feel like I had never left. And let me tell you, leaving to come back here was not by any means easy. It was actually more difficult leaving this time than it was back in June. What can I say, I have the best friends and family in the world!!
Is anyone out there Russian Orthodox? If so, what is the name of the holiday that takes place in January where everyone goes into the river and dunks 3 times? From what I’ve heard it’s the Russian Orthodox New Year. And by doing this your sins will be forgiven and you won’t be sick for the following year. I think it’s the Russian version of the flu shot! Anyway, I did such an immoral and insane act. Talk about cold. I went with a group of volunteers and together we literally froze our butts and every other part of our bodies off. I’ll send photos as soon as I can. Otherwise you probably wouldn’t be believing of word of this! Continuing with the tradition, afterwards you are given a shot of vodka and a pickle. And it’s a very good idea to bring other people with you. Because once out of the water your hands and feet don’t work so well. So getting dressed is a huge problem. But, after 4 or 5 shots of vodka I could finally take off the wet, frozen clothes and get back into my nice dry, warm clothes. The strangest part was after being out of the water for a few minutes and letting the vodka do its magic I actually wasn’t cold anymore. It was about 10 below zero, I was wearing just my underwear and a wet t-shirt (getting a visual!?) and I wasn’t remotely cold. I was actually quite warm. I’m guessing that was the hypothermia setting in! Anyway, I’ll have something to tell my grandchildren.
More good news! I finally have my own apartment!! I just finished making my very own dinner for the first time in over 9 months. Borscht and a Russian salad. Mmmmmm! Can’t hardly wait to eat. And, the best part, it only took me two days of shopping to find all the ingredients! Yes, this is a country of convenience. And I only got lost two times! Apparently bus #2 goes by my abode in one direction but not the other. So I can take leaving my apartment but it doesn’t come back. I think I’m really starting to get the hang of it! Anyway, you’re all invited over for dinner! Don’t be late!! And please bring your own vodka!
I received a phone call last week from the United States Embassy in Kazakhstan. My first thought was, “Oh shit! They’re on to me!” Fortunately they just wanted me to host a meeting with them and some other volunteers. Whew! I can handle that. Still not sure what it’s all about or why they are coming to Uralsk. I’ll keep you posted. And if you’d like to join you’re more than welcome. And this time you don’t have to bring your own vodka!
The weather. Bloody, bloody cold. The average is now about 20 below. And that’s not including the wind chill. And let me tell ya, the Siberian wind is cold and harsh. I have a really warm, long coat (thank you again Aunt Donna!!), 2 pairs of warm gloves, hat, scarf, long underwear, and it’s still cold. Some people here are disappointed with such a mild winter. And you think I’m weird!?!
After coming back from the States I had to go to the former capital, Almaty, for a peace corps meeting. It was great seeing most of the other volunteers. Heard some very interesting stories indeed. I’ll spare you the gory details for now.
Well, dinner is ready! I miss you all very much!
Take care,
Much love, Rachael

Any further questions????

2004-11-22T21:53:00.000+04:00

Hi Everyone!
Are you all ready for Thanksgiving? I know I sure am. I’ll be meeting with about 20 other volunteers on Saturday for one heck of a feast. AND, someone was able to locate a turkey dealer!! I can hardly wait!
Although we’ve had some snow here it hasn’t been enough and the weather isn’t quite cold enough to keep everything frozen. I’m hoping and praying for that day. Right now the entire area is a mud swamp. And this isn’t even technically the muddy season! I can hardly wait for spring! Uhhggg! I’ll send you a few pictures.
I’ve noticed that there are some questions that keep coming up in various emails. Apparently I haven’t been too good on details. Sorry about that! It’s difficult to see the forest in spite of the trees. Or something like that.
So, I live in the city of Uralsk, which is located in the most northwestern corner of Kazakhstan. I’m very close to the Russian border; I think about 100 kilometers. There are three rivers that run through and around the city. The only one I can recall at present is the Ural or Oral. The city lies at the border of the steppe. Not a very industrial city. It’s directly north of the Caspian Sea and northwest of the ever-shrinking Aral Sea.
The country of Kazakhstan is divided into 15 oblasts (like states or regions). And Uralsk is like the capital of this most western oblast. And is hence, politically, an important city.
South of here, surrounding the Caspian is what is referred to as the oil cities. A lot of people from Uralsk work and live there because there is more money to be made there. You can also find a lot of foreigners in these cities; tons of Americans.
Right now I’m still living with a host family. They are truly some of the most beautiful people I’ve met here. And I have met and befriended some wonderful people. But, at the end of February I’ll be able to move out on my own. Hopefully I can find something within walking distance (30-45 minutes). Presently going to and from home is difficult and expensive at times.
Music. No, I didn’t bring any instruments with me and regretting that decision!! Actually going through a musical withdrawal!!! They do have guitars here, but a bit out of my price range. So, I’ll have to figure something out soon!! Maybe I’ll blackmail a friend into sending me my fiddle!! Better than nothing. To make matters worse I still can’t find any locals who play Kazak or Russian folk music. I was really looking forward to that! Can’t win ‘em all!!!
If you have anymore questions please don’t hesitate! I love seeing unread emails when I sign in online!! Please keep ‘em coming!!! In the meantime, have a great Thanksgiving!!!

P.S Here’s an interesting article!!

DEPT. OF FOREIGN RELATIONSTHE BORAT DOCTRINEIssue of 2004-09-20Posted 2004-09-13Roman Vassilenko, the press secretary for the Embassy of Kazakhstan, wants to clear up a few misconceptions about his country. Women are not kept in cages. The national sport is not shooting a dog and then having a party. You cannot earn a living being a Gypsy catcher. Wine is not made from fermented horse urine. It is not customary for a man to grab another man’s khrum. “Khrum” is not the word for testicles.These falsehoods, and many others, have been spread by Borat, a character on “Da Ali G Show,” which recently finished its second season on HBO. Like Ali G, Borat is played by Sacha Baron Cohen, a British comedian who specializes in prank interviews. As Borat, Cohen has told a dating service that he is looking for a girl with “plow experience,” persuaded a meeting of Oklahoma City officials to observe a ten-minute silence in memory of the (fictitious) Tishnik Massacre, and, most notably, led a country-and-Western bar in a sing-along of “In My Country There Is Problem,” whose chorus goes: “Throw the Jew down the well / So my country can be free / You must grab him by his horns / Then we have a big party.”It was partly Borat’s casual but relentless anti-Semitism that led Vassilenko to object publicly, in a letter to The Hill, a Washington weekly. (In real life, Cohen is an observant Jew, but the Anti-Defamation League also condemned him, arguing that “the irony may have been lost on some of the audience.”) “He says things that make people think that Kazakhstan really is a backward country,” Vassilenko said last week from his office in Washington. In Borat’s Kazakhstan, Jews attack people with their claws, and “Dirty Jew” is a popular film. But the real Kazakhstan has long embraced its thriving Jewish community, according to the National Conference on Soviet Jewry, and earlier this month the country dedicated the largest synagogue in Central Asia. “The President of the country came down, as well as the chief rabbi of Israel,” Vassilenko said. “There were all kinds of rabbis from around the world, and a New Yorker. He was not a rabbi, but you might be interested to know the name. The name is Ronald Lauder.”Vassilenko is also chagrined at Borat’s portrayal of women in Kazakh society, epitomized by his claim that “in Kazakhstan we say, ‘God, man, horse, dog, then woman, then rat.’” Vassilenko said, “I don’t think our women like that, not to mention the men. We have women ministers, women judges, businesspeople.” Nor should Borat have been appalled, as he was in one episode, to learn that American women can vote. American and Kazakh women both got the vote, Vassilenko pointed out, on August 26, 1920.It turns out that almost nothing about Borat’s Kazakhstan withstands scrutiny. Borat doesn’t look like an ethnic Kazakh. His Kazakh words “resemble some gibberish Polish,” Vassilenko said. And, while Borat has claimed that “in Kazakhstan the favorite hobbies are disco dancing, archery, rape, and table tennis,” Vassilenko concedes only the first and the last. Archery is “not prominent,” he said, and statistics show that the Kazakh sexual-assault rate is far lower than the United States’. (That may be because the crime is more likely to go unreported.)So what is the national sport of Kazakhstan? “The most known ones are wrestling and all kinds of sports that try people in how they master horses,” Vassilenko said. “Kazakhs were traditional nomads, so there are various sports like horse races. Another horseback sport is called something like Catch a—what is name?—Catch a Bride. And that is that a group of young guys race to get a bride, and she races away from them and they have to catch her while she fends them off with a whip.” This sport does not result in actual matrimony—just a kiss.According to Borat, a Kazakh man gets a wife by buying a woman from her father for fifteen gallons of insecticide. Vassilenko disputes this, too: “The men propose marriage with engagement rings.” There is an old tradition—“maybe a hundred years ago,” Vassilenko said—of men kidnapping their brides, but he claims that the practice is virtually obsolete. Also, he said, “If you want to do it for fun, you can do that,” but the woman has to be in on it.Travel guides mention a Kazakh sport called kokpar, a precursor of polo. When Vassilenko was asked about it, he hesitated, then explained, “That’s the one where a goat, a dead goat”—a headless dead goat—“is, um, being held as a sort of a prize. And then one rider has it, and he has to run away with it from others who seek to catch it and snatch it from him.” And then they have a party.— Daniel Radosh

2004-10-21T11:35:00.000+05:00

The building where I teach

2004-10-21T11:32:00.000+05:00

Orthodox church in Ecik, Kazakhstan. A view from my classroom.

2004-10-20T00:45:00.000+05:00

I'm not in Kansas anymore!

Got Kleenex??

2004-10-16T12:39:00.000+05:00

Howdy!!
First, I must start with a confession. Yesterday I told some people that winter has struck Uralsk, minus the snow. That was one huge lie! Yes!! We have snow! In fact, I was lucky enough to see my first Siberian blizzard, while, of course, sipping my Kazakhstani beer. That’s when I had to ask myself, “I signed up for this?!?!” Uhhggg! Anyway, it’s 5 below out there. And it’s only October!!! No more complaints about my room being 85 degrees!
The winter of course increases a certain Kazakh tradition; spitting. Why in the world would anyone use a tissue when the street, sidewalk, hallway, bus can serve the same purpose? In fact, if you were to blow your nose in public people would stare at you with utter and complete (as opposed to incomplete) disgust.Yeah, placing your snot in a Kleenex is disgusting. But blowing your nose onto the sidewalk and then to wipe the remains off the side of your face and to then wipe your hand on your pants is perfectly and logically encouraged. Anything else would be uncivilized. Kleenex? Leave those repulsive things at home!
Some interesting tidbits: there have now been terrorist threats in Almaty to Americans and I’m being kept under surveillance by the KGB. How’s that for interesting?! Yup, just another day in Kazakhstan. The word is that they even have access to my emails. So,if that’s the case and this very email is being read by KGB eyes, I would like to take this opportunity to say, Hi Guys!! Cold enough for ya!?
Classes seem to be going better. Or, I’m just becoming numb to it all. I teach 7 classes of home reading to third year students at the West Kazakhstan University. I cannot believe the difference from one student to the next and from one class to the next.One extreme to the other. But, all it takes is those 2 or 3 students that make it all worth it. I hope someday I can find a way to thank them. Till then, I’ll just try and teach them English. Not that I can speak the bloody language.
I had a million things I wanted to tell you, and of course I can’t bloody remember any of ‘em. Must be the cold. I guess just a lucky break for you.
Till next time, take extra good care of yourselves and remember that someone in Kazakhstan is thinking of you and misses you terribly!!!

Much, much love, Rachael

It's raining!

2004-09-29T23:24:00.000+05:00

Hi Everyone!
So how's the weather in your neck of the woods. It's raining here, and boy can it rain in Uralsk. Last time I got caught in the rain, the streets and sidewalks were flooded in a matter of minutes. And by minutes I mean not very many! So, I was supposed to meet some other volunteers and had to journey through the newly and quickly formed swamps. I was doing on ok, until I fell in a ditch and was completely submerged in water. Uhg!! Live and learn. Still met the friends and still managed to drink my way dry.
Anyway, just thinking of you all and this time I really do promise to send a more detailed update. Till then, stay dry and remember someone in Kazakhstan is thinking of you!!!
much love,
Rachael

P.S I've received some replies from this site but I can't send you a reply back. So to those people, I just want to say thanks so much for stopping by and taking the time to say hello. I really appreciate that! And especially to Nikki in Hawaii. I tried to find your friends site and a place to leave a comment for you. No luck!! Could you possibly give me you email??

2004-09-10T23:14:00.000+05:00

Hi Everyone!
Greetings from the “far side” of the world. And what an absurd world this is! But, I promised not to complain too much in this particular email. On that note, I even have some good news!! Yippee!! I finally found out my address! It only took 3 weeks! What was I worried about. Anyway, it’s at the end of this email. I think it would be easiest just to print it out and slap in on an envelope or care package. (subtle hint!!) Well, since you brought it up, yes! send care packages!! And, to get two birds with one stone, my good friend Tom came up with a brilliant idea!! This is a rally call to help the unfortunate university students of Uralsk, Kazakhstan! Each class consists of about 10 students. If you’re feeling rather inspired and/or generous please send books! Just about anything will do. Preferably standard American literature. You have no idea how this would make my life, well, let’s just say it would make my life!!
As of tomorrow I will have completed my first 2 weeks of teaching. Funny, I certainly don’t feel like a teacher. But, some of the students can actually understand some of what I say. My personal favorite is when I ask a question and all I get is blank stares. No, really! I love that!! It’s actually easier for them to understand a Russian speak poor and/or incorrect English than it is for them to understand me. Guess I’ll just have to fail each and every one of them! NOT!!
Their grading system doesn’t receive a very high grade in my book. It’s based on a system of 1-5; 5 being the highest. Since I have no bloody idea how I’m supposed to grade them, I’ve decided everyone gets a 5 unless they piss me off! So basically, come to class and pretend to understand and the American will give you a 5. Not a bad deal. I just pray they learn something!!
For the most part I really love these people. But, (and no! I’m not complaining) you would not believe all the pushing, shoving, and cutting in lines that takes place here! There’s been a few times I’ve come close to saying something, not that they would understand. If you’re in someone’s way, don’t worry, they’ll literally push you out of the way. Or if your walking and they are in your way, either push ‘em or walk around ‘em. And yes, I walk around them!!
The host family is doing well. Although I think we’ll all be doing better once I’m no longer living with them! Just my humble opinion. An opinion that may come back to haunt me. Based on what the peace corps pays, I’ll be living in the slums of Uralsk! But, I want to live alone. So that’s life.
Went to my first Kazak concert last night. It was their local orchestra. Not bad at all. Looking forward to hearing more of that. Music, a language I can actually understand! Learned a bit more about the Kazak people there as well. Many came in late. And no, you don’t need to wait for a break in the music. Just come on in, and talk to your friends while looking for a seat. No programs. Before each composition someone announces what they will be playing and the composer. I found it all rather interesting and am thrilled that there are some fantastically talented musicians here in Uralsk!
Tomorrow is Saturday and I have to teach!! Being the new kid on the block I get the least desirable class times and days. Oh well, it’s not like I actually mind staying home on a Friday night!! Just have to make up for it on Saturday night!!
I hope you’re all doing well. Thank you so much for your love, prayers, energy, emails, and letters. I honestly would not be able to handle all this without you!!

See you soon!!!
Much love,
Rachael

Rachael Schmidt Рэтчил Шмидт
106 Dimitrieva St. Ул. Дмитриева 106, Бокс 56
P.O Box 56 ОАО Казпочта
Uralsk 417 000 Уральст 417 000
Kazakhstan Казахстан

Mama, I'll be a little late!

2004-08-27T13:00:00.000+05:00

Uralsk August 26, 2004

Greetings! So far so good. Still not certain when I’ll be able to email. But when the chance comes I’ll be ready.
My new host family is wonderful! Even better than I ever hoped for. There’s mom (Maoora), dad (Ghimran) and three sons (Azamat, Armat, and Oskar). Their ages are 16, 15, and 8. I think anyway. I also heard that the two older ones will be studying in England come September. We’ll see.
So far I haven’t had much of a chance to check out the city, other than the university. But, during the next two years I’m sure I’ll have plenty of time for that. Till then, I’m sort of trapped in their house. And what a house it is. Even without comparing it to my little house in the village of Issyk, it’s a mansion! Talk about going from one extreme to another. I’ve done exactly that. Of course I can’t take credit for it though.
I had no idea how I was going to find transportation from the airport to their house. Well, they were waiting for me with 3 men to carry my luggage, a car and a driver. Apparently whenever I need transportation I just let them know and the car will be waiting. Not too shabby.
After being taken home, I was fed an amazing, traditional Kazakhstani meal. Complete with a glass (or two or three, yea!! They drink!!) of dry red wine. Unfortunately my host father wasn’t there due to a meeting he had with the president of Kazakhstan. Does it get any better? No!! I also had horse meat for the first time. That seems to be the main meat here. It’s not bad; similar to beef, but better.
The first night they complimented me on my Russian. That certainly came as a shocker. Obviously they weren’t expecting much in regards to language skills. Later that night, while watching TV, I saw my host father on the news speaking with President Nazerbaev. Yeah, not a bad family. In addition to the wealth, indoor plumbing, sauna and pool, they’re truly genuine, warm and great people. I can’t imagine being with a better family.
Did I mention the weather?? It’s even hotter than southern Kazakhstan!! At least 100 degrees at times. And of course they don’t have air conditioning or a fan. Not that I’m complaining, well, maybe just a bit. It’s HOT!!! And I know for certain that I will be eating those words once I experience my first Siberian Winter. The country director of the Peace Corps said, and I quote, “A happy volunteer is a bitching volunteer.” So, guess I’m happy after all!
My counterpart, Maryam, is also wonderful. Never mind she’s in Moscow right now taking care of her daughter when I need her!! Her English is great and she really looks out for me. And, I officially have a post office box. Unfortunately I have no idea what the address is though. All in good time.
Ghimran said that I’ll be able to hook up to the internet at home. Not sure when that will take place. They’re very busy at this point and I hate to bother them more than 5 or 6 times a day.
Well, I guess that’s my report for now. I hope to be able to send this off soon. In the meantime, I miss you all VERY much!!!

Much love, Rachael

Uralsk

2004-08-15T10:30:00.001+05:00

Uralsk

2004-08-15T10:30:00.000+05:00

Hey Everybody!
Sorry it's been so long, but training has been rather time consuming. And, now that training is officially over the real fun begins.
Next week I'll be leaving for the city of Uralsk. It's in the north/west corner of Kazakhstan and it's closer to Moscow than to where I am right now (Issyk/Almaty)
I still don't know what my address will be. But rest assured, I will have that for you ASAP!!!

I'll write more soon!
love, Rachael

Do you smell what I smell??

2004-07-19T06:09:00.000+05:00

     Wow! It's been one hell of a week! Thank God it's Friday! And how do I celebrate??? I sit in my room. Does it get any better?!?
     I did have some excitement today. To begin, it's actually cold!!! Talk about refreshing excitement! And then, IT happened! I wore a jacket for the first time today since I've been here. And guess what found in the pocket??? No, come on, you gotta guess!! Yes! That's exactly right! An unused kleenex!! It was sooo soft! I had forgotten what they felt like! It gives a runny nose a reason to live! Hold on, I just gotta blow my nose one more time! I truly forgot what that was like. Kleenex will definitely be added to the Christmas list!
     Speaking of noses, came up with yet another brilliant idea! (That makes a total of 2 in this lifetime!!) Well, you know how so very much I want you to experience Kazakhstan? Well, here is the ultimate experience for your very own noses...I'm going to send you, in an airtight bag, my very dirty, and, oh yes, very smelly clothes!!! Just one whiff and you WILL know more than you ever wanted to know of Kazakhstan!!
     I've been here a month now and have had 2, yes 2!!, opportunities to wash my clothes. As of tomorrow, I will have no choice but to forego my morning splash in the bucket, and instead use ti to wash my underwear with a bar of soap. I can't wait!! Are you as excited as I am?? I really don't think so!
     On Tuesday and Thursday of this week I "taught" at a university in Almaty. Each class was an hour. It had to have been the combination of the July heat, closed windows (due to traffic noise) and begin extremely nervous. I was completely drenched! Don't even ask what I would have done at that point for a Klondike bar!! But, it was a learning experience. Unfortunately just not for the students!! I now know, that I do not know how to write a lesson plan. Really, it's a good thing to know! Somehow I survived. The students were great; very forgiving. And their English was well beyond what I expected. They should have been teaching me English!!
     The host family is doing great. I don't have any complaints other than I'd rather not be living with a host family. As much as I love them, I prefer living alone. They would make great neighbors though! And, everyday I'm able to communicate a little better with them. From that sentence do not assume I mean that my Russian is improving. NO!!! I'm just getting really good at charades!! Seriously, my Russian is improving a bit. Albeit, via a slow and painful process. In addition to class I do study a lot. And by a lot, I mean A LOT! And from THAT sentence, please do not assume I'm disciplined and dilligent. Like I said, before, I live in a very small Kazakhstani village. What else is there to do!?!
     I live about 2 blocks from the Mosque. Several times a day I can hear what I believe is their call to prayer. Of course I have no idea what is being said, but it does sound neat. Nothing against Muslims, but I'd rather live in a Jewish village! Too bad the Peace Corps doesn't go to Israel!!!
     Right now I can smell something cooking. And my host mother is an awesome cook!! And by amazing, I mean it's amazing that I can smell anything over my own body odor!! Although, it is the most effective means of birth control known to man. Nonetheless, I must investigate to kitchen/dining room/reading room.

Hope you're all eating as well as I am!!!
Much, much love,
Rachael

Almaty

2004-07-11T17:15:00.000+05:00

Wow! What a weekend! Two friends and I escaped from Issyk and went to the big city of Almaty, without any chaperones!! I won't go into detail as to how lost we got. But, it was great to get away and relax a bit. I certainly had my share of walking this weekend.
I start teaching this week. Hopefully I'll still have time to play on the computer. But, if it takes a while to respong to emails, don't be offended.
Talk to you soon!!

love, Rachael

What a life!

2004-07-09T16:06:00.001+05:00

Life in Issyk

All in all, this is quite an amazing village, as long as you love mountains, cows, children, and not being able to speak the language. What can I say? I love it!
Every morning I wake to the light of the sun. I’ve yet to set my alarm clock. I then take a walk to my favorite hole in the backyard for official morning business. My host father (Suliman) is always up well before me tending to the animals and me. He heats a bucket of water for me so I can wash up. What a guy! After that comes the real challenge; finding clean clothes. Once I find something that isn’t too dirty and smelly I throw it own and pretend not to mind.
Next; breakfast. By this time my host mother is up fixing my breakfast. She’s such a sweet woman and I really, REALLY wish she wouldn’t do that, but when in Rome. So, the entire table is set for a king. I’m usually served what we had for dinner the night before. Not typical breakfast food, but it’s very good. And this, as all meals is followed by a cup of tea.
While I’m eating, Sonya (host mother) makes my lunch; usually just enough to feed a large army. Since the first day I’ve always brought home what I don’t eat thinking that she’ll stop packing so much. Still working on that one. Then, both mama and papa walk me to the street, mama gives me a kiss and hug, and I’m off. A brisk, half hour walk to school.
School. Six days a week of intense and long classes. I absolutely love language class and my teacher. It’s the technical classes (education), health classes and meetings that drive me to the point of insanity. On days when it’s just language class there are only 12 students at my school. The other 30 live in other villages where they have their own language class and teacher.
The majority of volunteers are young, immature and just out of college. Hence, they know it al. So I try to avoid large group activities. Unfortunately my two best buddies are in other villages as well. So we usually only see each other with the rest of the herd. But, that’s alright.
Language class. Of course it has to be intense. We have 10 weeks to learn 2 years worth of the Russian language. This is my favorite part. It also helps being just a bit more advanced than the other students when it comes to language. Once again, thank you Lois!!!! There is, however, a certain someone in my class of 6 people. You Seinfeld fans will appreciate this one! It’s none other than Uncle Leo!! I wish I were joking. The man is severely ADD, hard of hearing, and possesses no social grace, much less, awareness whatsoever! It provides many laughs, but even more frustrations. The entire Peace Corps staff and volunteers are well aware of the problem, but no one wants to address it. And no one can explain or remotely understand how he made it in. Would you care for a sample?? We took a field trip to Almaty. This city is an hour from Issyk and is the biggest city in all of Central Asia. We were passing a huge statue when Uncle Leo asks me who it is. How and why the hell I would know, is beyond me. So, I tell him, “Oh, that’s my brother.” Well, he believed it.
After school, it’s back home. I’ve never had such a strict and enforced curfew in allllll my life! If I say I’ll be home by six, I better be home before six. One time, I got really crazy and came home an hour late! They had called everyone except for my brother in Almaty asking about my whereabouts. That was a first AND a last time. At least I know if I were to be MIA, the search party would not be far behind. So, on days when I’m on time, I’m greeted by mama with a hug and kiss. The women are very affectionate with other woman. Certainly doesn’t bother me any.

I'm alive!!

2004-06-23T16:38:00.000+05:00

Hey Everybody,
Yeah, it's bloody hot here! I won't even mention
that there arent' any fans, air conditioning or cold
beverages. But, I can handle it. I sweat non-stop.
Fortunately, I can only IMAGINE how I smell and not
acutally smell myself. One smell I can't get used to
is the outhouse. Yup, nothing like the smell of shit
in the summer! For bathing I get a bucket of water.
And of course right outside the window is the barn and
shit of a different nature; cow shit!! Imagine trying
to bath while not breathing through you nose. Really!
Try it sometime!! But, that I can handle as well.
The name of my village is Issik. And downtown
Issik has a bazaar. Their version of a mall. Today I'm
going to invest in a fan. On average the temperature
in my room is 85. Hope my host family doesn't mind.
Today I spent 8 hours in language class. In
addition to learning the language, there is so much to
do. Keeping up is an impossibility. So, I just do what
I can.
A few days ago I learned how to do laundry. Sonya
brought a big tub outside; filled it bucket by bucket
with hot water. Then, the scrubbing started. Talk
about back breaking work! In a matter of seconds the
clothes I was wearing were completely drenched with
sweat. Sonya then asked if this is how we wash clothes
in America. She got her answer by the look on my face.
I've never seen her laugh so hard. Anyway, got 1/2 of
it done when she insisted on doing the rest for me the
next day. When it dried she still wouldn't give it to
me and insisted again on ironing them. I begged her
not to do that, but, to no avail.
Sonya and Suliman are about 50. Farida is 18 and
right now is away taking exams. So, it's just me, mom,
and pop. This area of Kazakhstan is quite green. And
the mountains are unbelievable. I can't wait to do
some hiking with the other volunteers. Come July and
August it will only get hotter. Although they are
Muslim, there isn't much evidence of it. The women do
not have to cover too much. They all wear skirts and a
shirt of some kind. The kids dress however they want
to. But, other than not being able to shower for the
last 2 weeks, no complaints.
There are quite a few cars. Most of which you
wouldn't even find in a junkyard in the States. And
every vehicle is a potenial taxi. You just hold your
arm out and one will stop. I've only done that a few
times cuz I'd rather get the exercise. The cost from
my house to school is about 8 cents. So obviously I
can't afford it either. ha,ha!
Cigarettes are also pretty cheap. Not sure exactly
how much, but 1 dollar is 135 tenge. And cigarettes
are 50 tenge. So, in other words, less than 50 cents.
Of course the choices are reflected in the price!
I also had my first Kazakhstani beer! I have to
admit, I was afraid, very afraid. To my surprise, it
was great! And, less than $1!
All in all, I'm surviving, learning lots, and in
good spirits. Thanks for your love and prayers!!
much love, Rachael